Use this pattern adjustment tutorial to make a Fuller Bust Adjustment (FBA) to a Twig + Tale® Cascades Top.
Note that this adjustment is useful for adjusting the full bust measurement of a pattern by one size (up to 2"/5cm).
As this is a flat front style garment it is less obvious if your bust is smaller than the size the pattern is designed for, and so an SBA will likely not be required.
Materials
Gather some basic materials to adjust the pattern pieces:
- Cascades Top Front pattern piece
- measuring tape
- scrap paper
- tape
- ruler
- pen/pencil
- scissors
Measure
To determine the size of adjustment necessary, measure your high bust and full bust.
The high bust measurement is taken around the body, with the tape snugged up to the underarms, and above the breasts.
The bust measurement is taken around the fullest part of the breasts.
Determine your base size based on the Upper Bust measurement in the garment size chart. If your full bust measurement is one size larger than your upper bust measurement, use the Fuller Bust Adjustment (FBA) described here.
For a difference of one size, we will do a 2" (5cm) FBA. We will divide the difference in half, since we'll be working on half of the Front pattern piece (because it is cut on the fold). So, in our example, we will add 1" (2.5cm) to the pattern piece.
Before you begin adjusting your pattern pieces, mark your bust apex onto the Front pattern piece. Everyone is different, so this will ensure you are adding the extra ease to the right place for your body.
To take the bust apex measurement, place the end of the measuring tape at your high shoulder point (about where your neck starts to curve away from the shoulder) then measure down to the fullest part of your bust. Note that the bust apex is not necessarily the same as your nipple position.
Be aware that the bust apex position depends on whether or not you wear supportive underwear (bra). When taking your measurement, wear a similar under garment to what you will wear under the finished top.
To compare your measurement to the pattern, lay your measuring tape on the pattern with the end of the tape 3/8" (1cm) from the neck point of the front and mark on the pattern where your bust apex falls. Mark this on the pattern and use this point as a reference for making the pattern adjustment. Here's an example:
Adjust pattern piece
1. Mark a line parallel to the centre front edge, through the shoulder to the hem. Then, mark in the stitching line (3/8"/1cm) at the shoulder and at the point where the lengthen/shorten line meets the side seam.
2. Cut through the vertical line drawn in the previous step front the hem up to but not through the stitching line marked at the shoulder. This will leave a little bit of paper intact at the shoulder to use as a pivot point. Then, cut through the lengthen/shorten line from the centre up to but not through the stitching line on the side seam, forming another pivot point.
Slide a larger sheet of paper under the pattern piece so that you can tape it in place as adjustments are made. At this point, tape the neck section to the larger sheet of paper.
3. Pivot out the Side Front section at the shoulder point on the line until the gap between the pieces measures the amount you need to add in at the bust apex position (1"/2.5cm in our example). Tape the armhole section in place to secure it.
If you also have a waist or abdomen measurement that is 2 or more sizes larger than your base (upper bust) size, you may choose not to pivot back at all, but leave the gap as is to add some room for the abdomen. If so, skip ahead to step 5 to add in the required length at the centre front.
4. Pivot the lower section at the side Front at the side seam/lengthen shorten line until the hem point touches the Front section. Tape in place.
5. Cut through the lengthen/shorten line on the centre of the Front section and slide the lower section of the front down by half the amount you added into the width of the front (1/2"/1.3cm in our example). It helps to draw a line extending from the neck point along the centre front line before sliding this piece to keep the centre front line straight. Tape in place.
6. Blend the shoulder, side seam, hem, centre front and waist casing edges so they are smooth.
Measure the new lines of the waist casing, and add any extra length to your casing pattern piece, to match the new measurement.
Continue to cut and sew your garment as outlined in the tutorial. Enjoy wearing a top with a custom fit!
Read more Breeze Shirt pattern adjustment tutorials here:
- How to do a Forward Shoulder Adjustment
- Fuller Bust Adjustment (FBA) for a Flat Front Garment - Without adding a dart
- How to do a Forward Head Adjustment