A small rolled hem is a quick and neat way to finish your garment but sometimes you want more drama! A wide facing can give that extra that you need to turn a tidy hem finish into a fabulous finish!
First decide how wide you want to make your hem facing. Add to this measurement a seam allowance for stitching the facing to the hem edge and (if you wish) a turn under allowance on the top edge. For example: You wish to create a 4" (10cm) wide hem facing with a folded under and topstitched top edge so you add 3/4" (2cm) to the measurement for a 3/8" (1cm) hem edge seam allowance PLUS a 3/8" (1cm) folded under allowance. Your cut width of hem facing will be 4 3/4" (12cm) wide.
Trace off the lower section of the hem making sure you trace at least 4 3/4" (12cm) up each seam edge
Measure up from the hem edge the cut width of your hem facing. Mark in the measurement as many times as you need to be able to make a smooth, even line following the hem line. Blend between the measurements to create the top edge line.
Cut out your new hem facing along the outer edges you have created.
Sewing:
Join your hem facings along panel/sideseams
If you are folding under the top edge: Memory press the top edge under 3/8: (1cm)
Sew the lower edge of the facing to the hem edge. If the hem is quite curved you will need to clip the hem allowance. Press the seam open and press the hem facing up to the inside of the garment with the hem seam every so slightly toward the inside so that it is well hidden when worn. Press well!
Pin or baste the facing to the hem so that it sits flat and doesn't move when sewing the top edge. This is very important if your facing is quite wide (like our example!)
Top edge stitching options:
1/8" (3mm) Topstitch along top folded edge to create wide topstitched finish on the outside
Blind hem (can be done on a folded edge or serged edge)
Fancy handstitch/embroidery (can be used to finish the raw edge as well as decorative)
Please feel free to join us at the Twig + Tale Facebook group where you can ask questions, look for inspiration, and of course share photos of your creations.
Read more about trouser, skirt and dress pattern adjustments here:
