One of the most satisfying things about sewing your own clothing is being able to customise the pattern to suit your body. Length changes are the most common adjustments needed in our vast and varied humanity. Many pattern pieces are basically rectangles and so are easy to adjust - simply measure up or down from the hem edge (or use the lengthen/shorten lines) and your adjustment is done! Sewing time! Flared pieces can be a little more tricky... especially if you need to lengthen or shorten by quite a lot and you worry that you will lose some of the shape in your final garment.
First, work out how much you need to adjust. Decide where you want the hem to finish on your body then go to the finished garment measurements chart in your tutorial and compare the measurement with your preferred length. Work out the difference between the two measurements and that's how much you need to add or remove from the pattern pieces.
In our example we will be adding length to the pattern pieces. If removing length, reverse the actions so that they applied into the pattern piece, rather than extending from the pattern piece.
If using paper, tape extra paper behind the hem of your pattern to draw on the extension.
Using a ruler, extend the lines of the lines by the measurement you need to add
At this point - PAUSE and check that your pattern will fit across the fabric you are wanting to use. If it doesn't you may need to add a centre seam or turn the pieces onto the other grain
At regular points along the hem, measure down the same amount as you added at the edges
Blend between the points to create your new hem. Repeat for ALL other pieces including linings and front facings (if needed)
If your pattern has a shaped hem facing, or you want to add one, trace around your new hem on a new piece of paper and measure up from the new hem the width you want the hem facing to be:
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Read more about trouser, skirt and dress pattern adjustments here:
