Fuller Arm Adjustment for a Set-In Sleeve - Scenic, Fable, Breeze

Use this pattern adjustment to add extra ease to the top of a set in sleeve.  Here, we demonstrate using the Scenic Top, but this adjustment works for any set in sleeve, such as the Fable Dress or the Breeze Shirt.  

Materials

  • Pattern pieces (Sleeve, Body Front and Back)
  • Large piece of paper to position adjusted pattern pieces
  • Ruler
  • Pencil
  • Scissors
  • Tape

Measure

If your upper arm measurement is 3 or more sizes larger than your selected size, you will need to do a Fuller Upper Arm Adjustment.  If your upper arm is 1-2 sizes larger than the size you selected, then you should get a good result by following the size blend instructions in the pattern tutorial. 

Measure around your upper arm/bicep.  Compare your actual upper arm measurement to the size you have selected in the size chart.  The difference between the two will be the amount to add into the sleeve for the pattern adjustment.  

For example, if you have an upper arm measurement of 19 3/4" (50cm), and the upper arm measurement for your selected size is 17 3/4" (45cm), then you will add 2" (5cm) to the pattern.  

Adjust pattern pieces

1.  On the Sleeve pattern piece, mark the seam allowance at the front and back notches and the underarm points. 

Draw two lines parallel to the grain line from the notch points to the hem.  Then, draw two lines from the underarm points to meet the previous lines.  

Fuller Arm Adjustment for a Set-In Sleeve by Twig + Tale

2.  Cut the lines from the notches to the hem, leaving a small piece of paper intact at the hem to use as a pivot point.  Cut the lines to the underarms, again leaving a hinge of paper intact as a pivot point.  

Fuller Arm Adjustment for a Set-In Sleeve by Twig + Tale

3.  Lay your pattern piece over a larger piece of paper.  Pivot out both side sections from the hem, opening the gap at the underarm line to half the total pattern adjustment amount.  In our example, this will be 1" (2.5cm) per side.  

Once the sections have been pivoted to the correct measurement, tape them in place.  

Fuller Arm Adjustment for a Set-In Sleeve by Twig + Tale

4.  Pivot the corner section down so that the inner corner overlaps by half the amount added in step 3.  In our example, this will be 1/2" (1.25cm).

Fuller Arm Adjustment for a Set-In Sleeve by Twig + Tale

5.  Measure the difference between the original notch position and the end of the pivoted section.  Mark the original notch position - 5/8" (2.2cm) in our example.

Fuller Arm Adjustment for a Set-In Sleeve by Twig + Tale

6.  Gently blend and smooth the hem, underarm and sleeve-head.

Fuller Arm Adjustment for a Set-In Sleeve by Twig + Tale

7.  Now, we will adjust the Front and Back Body pattern pieces to fit the new sleeve.  Draw a line parallel to the fold line from the notch to just above the waist (or on the Front to the dart line for tops with darts such as the Scenic Top).

Draw a line across the pattern piece from the end of the first line to the side seam.

Draw a third line parallel to the first very close to the side seam.

Fuller Arm Adjustment for a Set-In Sleeve by Twig + Tale

8. Cut all lines

Fuller Arm Adjustment for a Set-In Sleeve by Twig + Tale

9. Lay the pattern pieces on a larger piece of paper and slide the sections down by half the amount added into the sleeve head in step 5.  In our example, we will will be 3/8" (1.1cm).  Mark and keep the original notch position.  

Fuller Arm Adjustment for a Set-In Sleeve by Twig + Tale

10.  Slide out the corner section by the same amount as in step 9.  The adjustments in steps 9 and 10 add together to the total amount added to the sleeve head.  Tape in place.  

Fuller Arm Adjustment for a Set-In Sleeve by Twig + Tale

11.  Gently blend and smooth the side seam and armhole.

Fuller Arm Adjustment for a Set-In Sleeve by Twig + Tale

 

Your pattern pieces are now ready to use!

Remember, we always recommend sewing a muslin to test out your pattern adjustment before cutting into your fancy fabric.  

If you have any questions about sewing or adjusting Twig + Tale patterns, please feel free to join us at the Twig + Tale Facebook group.