Fuller Upper Arm Adjustment for Raglan Sleeve with a Shoulder Dart

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Materials

  • Pattern pieces (Sleeve, Top Front, and Top Back)
  • Measuring tape
  • Paper for tracing pattern pieces
  • Pencil 
  • Ruler
  • Scissors
  • Tape

Measure arm

To be comfortable the Pixie Duffel coat needs a minimum of 3" (7cm) ease in the upper arm. If your upper arm measurement is closer than 3" (7cm) to the upper arm measurement on the finished garment measurement chart then you will need to do a pattern adjustment. For a minor adjustment you can use the blend information in the tutorial but if you need to add more than a 1 1/2" (4cm) then an adjustment will give you a better outcome.

First you need to calculate how much you need to add. Find the finished garment measurement for the upper arm on the base size you have chosen. Take 3" (7cm) off that measurement. Compare this measurement with your body upper arm measurement. For example: Your base size is an M. The finished garment upper arm minus 3" (7cm) is 18 1/4" (47cm), your body upper arm is 51cm. You will need to add 1 1/2" (4cm) to the sleeve pattern. You will be adding to each side of the sleeve so divide this in half. You will add 3/4" (2cm) to each side of the pattern.

 

1. Draw a line on each side of the sleeve from the centre of the underarm curve (approx) to the lengthen/shorten line. Parallel to the grainline.

Fuller Upper Arm Adjustment for Raglan Sleeve with a Shoulder Dart by Twig + Tale

2. Mark the seam allowance about 1/2" (1.3cm) below the top notches on the front and back sleeves. Draw another line parallel to the grain line at this point to about halfway down the first line. square across to the first line.

Fuller Upper Arm Adjustment for Raglan Sleeve with a Shoulder Dart by Twig + Tale

3. 

Cut the first lines down to the lengthen/shorten line, cut along the lengthen/shorten line to the sideseam but don't cut all the way through! Leave a little paper at the end as a pivot point.

Cut the second lines up to the seam allowance below the notch. Cut into the seam allowance but leave a little paper as a pivot point on the stitching line.

It will help to place a larger piece of paper behind your pattern and tape each section to the paper as you finish each step.

Fuller Upper Arm Adjustment for Raglan Sleeve with a Shoulder Dart by Twig + Tale

4. Pivot out the side sections until the gap at the raglan seam measures the amount you calculated you need to add to each side in step 1. In our example it is 3/4" (2cm) each side

Fuller Upper Arm Adjustment for Raglan Sleeve with a Shoulder Dart by Twig + Tale

5. Pivot out the inner sections until the gap between the two sections looks fairly smooth (like you can join them up with a straight line without blending)

Fuller Upper Arm Adjustment for Raglan Sleeve with a Shoulder Dart by Twig + Tale

6. Blend/join the two sections and mark in the stitching line at this point. Measure the distance between the two sections at the stitching line. In our example this measurement is: 3/8" (1cm) on the front and 1/2" (1.3cm) on the back. If you do get two different amounts then simply pivot out the front side section until it measures the same as the back. This way your body adjustments will be the same and you know they will match on the sideseams etc.

Fuller Upper Arm Adjustment for Raglan Sleeve with a Shoulder Dart by Twig + Tale

7. Now onto the body pieces. Draw in the seam allowance just below the lower raglan notches. Draw a line from this point parallel to the grainline down to just above the dart (on the curved version front) or the lengthen/shorten line. If sewing the curved version then draw a line over to the sideseam just above the dart.

Fuller Upper Arm Adjustment for Raglan Sleeve with a Shoulder Dart by Twig + Tale

8. Cut the lines.

Fuller Upper Arm Adjustment for Raglan Sleeve with a Shoulder Dart by Twig + Tale

9. Slide the front and back sections down by the amount that you measured on the stitching line of the raglan seams in step 6. Slide the sections out a little until the gap on the raglan seam looks smooth and can be blended easily.

Fuller Upper Arm Adjustment for Raglan Sleeve with a Shoulder Dart by Twig + Tale

10. Blend the sideseams until smooth.

Fuller Upper Arm Adjustment for Raglan Sleeve with a Shoulder Dart by Twig + Tale