How to Sew a Patch Pocket

Generously-sized pockets are an essential feature of a functional garment.  Patch pockets, which are applied flat to the outside of a garment, are a simple way to add some storage capacity.  They are easy to access, and big enough to stash a phone and keys, or all those little treasures that seem to accumulate over the course of a day. 

Here, we demonstrate two ways to sew a patch pocket - lined and unlined.  They are shown here with the Fable Dress, but can be used on any project where you'd like to add a simple pocket.  

The two patch pocket options are:

  • Lined pockets - this is the option of choice if you wish to embroider your pocket because the lining will conceal the back of the stitching.

  • Unlined pockets - this option uses less fabric and is suitable if you are using a heavier weight of fabric.  

Lined Pockets

1.  Cut out 2 main and 2 lining pocket pieces.  For the lined version, trim off the top of the pocket to the notch.  

Patch pocket for the Fable Dress sewing pattern by Twig + Tale

2.  Place one main and one lining pocket piece with right sides together.  Stitch around the pocket with a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance, leaving a gap for turning.  

Adding a patch pocket to the Fable dress by Twig+Tale

3.  Trim the corners.  

Patch pocket for the Fable Dress sewing pattern by Twig + Tale

4.  Press the seams open.  

Patch pocket for the Fable Dress sewing pattern by Twig + Tale

5.  Turn the pocket over and press the turning gap edge from the other side.  

Patch pocket for the Fable Dress sewing pattern by Twig + Tale

6.  Poke out the corners.  

Patch pocket for the Fable Dress sewing pattern by Twig + Tale

7.  Position the pocket on the skirt piece with the turning gap at the bottom.  When the pocket is top-stitched to the skirt, the gap will be closed and there will be a nice smooth edge at the top of the pocket.  

Patch pocket for the Fable Dress sewing pattern by Twig + Tale

8.  Align the top of the pocket with the placement line.  The placement is a guide, so feel free to place them wherever you desire.  

Adding a patch pocket to the Fable dress by Twig+Tale

9.  Top-stitch the pocket to the skirt, backtacking at the upper corners for extra strength.  

Adding a patch pocket to the Fable dress by Twig+Tale

Unlined pockets

1.  Double fold the top edge using the notches as a guide.  Press, and stitch along the edge of the foldline. 

Adding a patch pocket to the Fable dress by Twig+Tale

2.  Fold all remaining edges 3/8" (1cm) to the wrong side and press.

Adding a patch pocket to the Fable dress by Twig+Tale

3.  Position the pocket on the skirt using the placement line as a guide, as above.  

Adding a patch pocket to the Fable dress by Twig+Tale

4.  Topstitch the pocket to the skirt, backtacking at the upper corners for extra strength.  

Adding a patch pocket to the Fable dress by Twig+Tale

That's it!  You now have some functional patch pockets on your garment!

 Read more about the Fable Dress here:

~ Cover image by Rachel Baldaccino ~