A simple modification to the construction technique of the Breeze Shirt allows the neckline facing to be reversed to show on the outside of the garment. Use a contrasting fabric, or trim such as piping or lace for an interesting design detail.
Because the facing pieces are small, they are a perfect use for those scraps of extra-special fabric that have been tucked away, just waiting for the perfect project.
Complete steps 1-8 (children's version), or steps 1-11 (women's) and steps 1-8 (men's versions) of the tutorial, sewing the shirt front and back pieces together at the shoulder. Prepare the interfaced collar piece.
We will do something a bit differently for step 9 (step 13 women's/step 10 men's version). As written in the pattern tutorial, the collar and neck opening are pinned right sides together. However, we will pin the right side of the collar piece to the wrong side of the neck opening of the shirt.
Sew using a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance.
Trim half the seam allowance and press it up towards the collar, as written in the tutorial. The reverse facing version will look like this, with the seam on the outside of the garment and the right side of the collar facing the inside:
Prepare the facing pieces exactly as written in steps 13-18 (steps 17-24 of women's/steps 14-21 of men's version) of the tutorial.
Because the facing will show on the outside of the shirt, it is worth it to take a little bit of extra time to ensure the outer edges of the facing are pressed under evenly.
Run a line of basting stitches 1/4" (6mm) from the outer edge of the facing, using a longer stitch length (these stitches will be removed later).
Use the stitch line as a guide to press the fabric over 1/4" (6mm) to the wrong side. After the pressing is done, the basting stitches can be removed so they don't show on the right side of the shirt.
Pin the right side of the facing to the wrong side of the shirt neckline and collar and sew as described in steps 29-30 (steps 33-34 women's/steps 30-31 men's version).
This is how it will look from the right side of the shirt:
Trim the seam allowances and press as described in step 31 (step 35 women's/step 32 men's version), turn the facing to the outside of the shirt, and press well.
Topstitch the neckline and the facing as described in the tutorial.
To add trim, such as piping or lace, pin or baste the trim around the edges of the facing before topstitching.
We look forward to seeing how you use the reverse facing method to make a unique and lovely Breeze Shirt. Please join us in the Twig + Tale Facebook group to ask questions, look for inspiration, and of course to share photos of your creations.
Read more about the Breeze Shirt here:
- Introducing the Breeze Shirt
- The Breeze Shirt: Fabric Recommendations
- How to Sew French Seams
- How to Add Eyelets to the Breeze Shirt
~Images by Angela Schade~
