We often receive questions about fabric choices for sewing Twig + Tale Vest and Coat patterns. While wool blankets are certainly warm and cosy, they can be difficult to come by in many parts of the world. So today, we'd like to discuss some non-wool fabrics that work beautifully for sewing vests and coats.
Depending on the season, vests and coats can be made in a wide variety of fabrics. Keep in mind that Twig + Tale coat and vest patterns are fully lined, so require an outer fabric, as well as a lining fabric. This opens up plenty of scope for beautiful fabric combinations!
For warm-weather wear or layering pieces, look for lightweight fabrics in breathable natural fibres. Quilting cotton and cotton poplin are available in a wide array of colours and patterns. Linen and hemp offer a beautiful, rustic-looking texture. Fine cotton lawn makes a beautiful, almost silky-feeling lining.
For cooler-weather garments, denim, canvas, cotton duck, brushed twill, corduroy, flannel, and velveteen are all lovely options. Have a look at laminate cotton or oilskin for a water-resistant option. Pictured below is a Women's Forester Coat with cotton twill outer with pre-quilted nylon lining.
A bit more about corduroy, since it's readily-available and makes lovely outerwear. Corduroy has a soft, velvety-feeling surface and comes in a variety of weights.
If you are unfamiliar with corduroy, here are some examples of different types. The fabric pictured below left is quite thick and plushy, and is described as wide-wale or 8-wale corduroy. In the middle is a medium-wale corduroy, 14-wale. On the right is a fine-wale needlecord, which is 22-wale.
If making a coat or vest for cooler weather, using quilted fabric is a good way to add some extra warmth to a garment. Pre-quilted fabrics, including cotton, nylon, or jersey knit, are often available in fabric stores. Or, you can customize a garment by making quilted fabric yourself - it takes a bit of extra time, but the results are so worth it.
Interested in giving it a try? Have a look at this post for some tips, or this post if you're looking for inspiration. The Trailblazer Vest pictured below was made with quilting cotton, sherpa, and a thick layer of batting for extra insulation. So cosy!
It is entirely possible to use knit fabric for vests or coats, although we'd recommend sticking with relatively-stable knits that don't have too much stretch. French terry, cotton fleece, and sherpa are all lovely choices that feel soft and cosy.
Polar fleece and softshell are also lightweight, warm options, though we tend to favour natural fibres for breathability, fabric longevity, and environmental impact. Pictured below is cotton fleece Pathfinder Vest with quilting cotton lining.
Corduroy, denim, or twill trousers or women's skirts are all wonderful choices for upcycling into vests or coats. Some creative seaming may be necessary to get enough yardage, or multiple fabrics can be combined for a colour-blocked effect. Re-using the pockets can add a unique detail too.
Felting a large wool sweater would yield enough fabric for a child's garment.
Felting the sweater before using it has a number of benefits: the fabric is denser and warmer, it is less likely to unravel when cutting, and it won't stretch as much. This is a lovely way to use a sweater with some holes that can be worked around.
Men's shirts are ideal for vest and coat linings. Flannel, cotton shirting, chambray, and linen would all make a beautiful lining, and a men's large or extra-large shirt yields plenty of fabric for a child's garment. Using a natural-fibre fabric for the lining makes it breathable and soft. Also look out for women's skirts and dresses, which can also provide plenty of yardage to work with.
Really, the sky is the limit when it comes to upcycling ideas for coats and vests. In a search for sturdy, warm fabric, we've had pattern testers upcycle all manner of fabric including leather jackets, sleeping bags, and even a canvas tent (pictured below). We love seeing your creative re-use of materials!
What fabric do you use to sew vests and coats? We'd love to hear your ideas! Please join us at the Twig + Tale Chat Facebook group to share your beautiful projects.