Step into a fabric store and you'll be greeted with shelves full of tempting fabric. Where to even get started when there are so many options!?
Or, perhaps you're scouring the racks of the op-shop or thrift store, looking for textiles to upcycle - what should you look for?
Here are some tips for choosing fabric for your very first sewing projects.
Choosing fabric for beginners
Not all fabric behaves the same. If you experiment with a few different types, you'll find that some can be cut and sewn without a struggle, while others just seem to fight back no matter what you do. When you're just getting started, you'll want to work with fabrics that won't warp, stretch, or slip around, and that behave predictably so you can practice and build your confidence rather than struggling with tricky fabric!
For first projects, we recommend looking for fabric with the following qualities:
- Stable - a stable fabric won't distort or stretch easily while you're working with it. When you pull along the grainline, it has very little to no stretch. The threads are tightly woven, so the fabric maintains its dimensions.
- Medium-weight - avoid very light or heavy weight fabric for your first project. A medium-weight fabric will be easier to control in the sewing machine.
- Has body - fabrics with more body have structure and less drape. Stiffer fabrics are easier to control while cutting and sewing because they hold their shape better while you're working with them.
- Natural fibre - some natural fibres tend to "stick" together better and are less likely to slip around when sewing two layers. They also press more nicely than synthetic fibres.
There's so much variation in different fabric types, but some good bets for beginner friendly fabric are:
- Medium-weight cottons like quilting cotton or cotton poplin (has a bit more drape than quilting cotton).
- Chambray or lighter weight denim.
- Twill or lighter weight cotton canvas.
- Cotton-linen blends tend to have more body than 100% linen, though linen quality can vary greatly (Essex linen, which is a 55/45 blend, has the look of linen, with the added body and structure of cotton).
- Cotton flannel is a cosy option.
Upcycled fabrics are a wonderful choice for sewing as well. Look for textiles like cotton tablecloths, sheets, or pillowcases, cotton dress shirts, chambray shirts, or lighter weight denim skirts. Upcycled textiles have the added bonus of being relatively inexpensive (or free) and can help keep discarded linens out of landfills.
Avoid tricky fabrics at first like slippery satins, stretchy knits, sheer fabrics, or anything with a nap (like velvet or corduroy). These require special handling techniques you'll appreciate learning once you have basic skills down.
Preparing Fabric
Finish the cut ends of the fabric (optional). The finished edges, called the selvedges, will not fray in the wash, however the cut edges may, depending on fabric type. If the fabric has a looser weave (like linen or flannel), you may want to quickly finish the cut ends with a quick zigzag stitch. This will help prevent threads from coming loose and creating a tangled mess in the washing machine.
Prewash fabric before cutting and sewing. A wash will remove any sizing (starch) or chemicals and will help preshrink the fabric. Fabric can behave quite differently after it's washed, so don't skip this step!
A good general rule of thumb is to wash and dry the fabric the same way you will wash and dry the finished garment. If you run your clothes through the dryer, then put your fabric in the dryer (depending on fabric type, of course. Some fabric shouldn't go in the dryer at all). If you line dry your clothing, then do the same for your fabric.
A good prewash can help avoid unexpected changes to the fabric, which can come as a nasty surprise when you've poured time, energy, and materials into sewing.
Press your fabric after washing. Be sure to press out all the wrinkles before cutting to help ensure accurate measurements and straight cuts. Cutting your pieces out of well-pressed, wrinkle-free fabric will help to get your project off to a good start.
Practice - sew a test swatch
Before you begin sewing your project, it's a great idea to practice with a test swatch. A test swatch helps you work out problems before you've cut into your project fabric or sewn something you'll have to unpick with a seam ripper. It takes just a minute but can save hours of frustration. Plus, you can use these swatches to practice your seam finishing techniques too!
Cut out two small squares (4-6"/10-15cm) of the same fabric you'll be using for your project and layer them just as you will in your actual project, with right sides together and edges lined up.
Try sewing a straight line 3/8" (1cm) from the edge of the fabric. This is a common seam allowance in T+T patterns, so it's good to get a feel for sewing at this distance from the edge. Practice backstitching at the beginning and end of a seam.
Notice how the fabric behaves when you're sewing. Does it pucker, stretch, or shift as you sew? You may need to make some adjustments to your machine settings, such as stitch length or tension.
These preparation steps may seem tedious, but they will set you up for success once you sit down at the sewing machine!
Find our entire Learn to Sew series here. A comprehensive collection of resources for beginner sewists.
