3. Turn the pocket bags through so that the right sides are together and press. Stitch around the outer edge again with a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.
4. Align the pocket bags with the side seams of the garment Front piece with wrong sides together. Line up the notches of the pocket bag with the notches on the side seam. Stitch between the notches with a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.
5. Trim the seam allowance back (as per step 3) between the notches only. Then, clip into the seam allowance at each end of the stitching (at the notch position) - be sure to clip up to the stitching but take care not to cut the stitching! Press the seam allowances open.
6. Flip the pocket bags to the right side of the garment Front, moving the bottom pocket bag layer out of the way. Stitch between the notches/cuts in the side seam with a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.
7. Again, clip into the seam allowance at the ends of the stitching. Cut up to the stitch line but take care not to cut the stitching!
Flip the pocket bags away from the Front so that both the top and bottom pocket bags are off the Front, then press the seam allowance (between the cuts/notches) under the pocket bag. Topstitch the seam on the pocket bag side between the cuts/notches using a 1/8" (3mm) seam allowance (this is also known as understitching, as it will be hidden when worn).
8. Fold the pocket bags around so they are both sitting flat on the wrong side of the garment Front. Make sure the seam allowance corners at each end of the stitching are sitting flat (not folded under) and press. On the wrong side of the garment Front you should see the pocket bag shape with a straight edge. On the right side of the garment Front you should see a stepped back pocket opening between the notches. The stepped back edge should be 1/2" (1.2cm) from the raw edge of the sideseam. Baste the ends of the pocket bag above and below the pocket opening with a scant 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.
9. Align the Front and Back side seams with WRONG sides together and sew with a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance. Trim seam allowances back as in previous steps and press seam allowances open.
10. Turn through so that front and back side seams are RIGHT sides together and sew again with a 1/4" (6mm) seam.
It is very important NOT to catch the pocket opening in the seam - it will help to sew the seam with the pocket bags on the top, marking the inner corners of the pocket opening with pins or chalk/water soluble marker. Carefully pull the under layer of the pocket bag out as you sew between the pins to avoid catching the pocket opening. Using a zipper foot can help with this step as the foot can run along the thickness of the pocket opening edge without catching it in the seam.
Enjoy your beautifully-finished French seamed garment, complete with pockets!
Read more Twig + Tale tutorials here:
3. Turn the pocket bags through so that the right sides are together and press. Stitch around the outer edge again with a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.
4. Align the pocket bags with the side seams of the garment Front piece with wrong sides together. Line up the notches of the pocket bag with the notches on the side seam. Stitch between the notches with a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.
5. Trim the seam allowance back (as per step 3) between the notches only. Then, clip into the seam allowance at each end of the stitching (at the notch position) - be sure to clip up to the stitching but take care not to cut the stitching! Press the seam allowances open.
6. Flip the pocket bags to the right side of the garment Front, moving the bottom pocket bag layer out of the way. Stitch between the notches/cuts in the side seam with a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.
7. Again, clip into the seam allowance at the ends of the stitching. Cut up to the stitch line but take care not to cut the stitching!
Flip the pocket bags away from the Front so that both the top and bottom pocket bags are off the Front, then press the seam allowance (between the cuts/notches) under the pocket bag. Topstitch the seam on the pocket bag side between the cuts/notches using a 1/8" (3mm) seam allowance (this is also known as understitching, as it will be hidden when worn).
8. Fold the pocket bags around so they are both sitting flat on the wrong side of the garment Front. Make sure the seam allowance corners at each end of the stitching are sitting flat (not folded under) and press. On the wrong side of the garment Front you should see the pocket bag shape with a straight edge. On the right side of the garment Front you should see a stepped back pocket opening between the notches. The stepped back edge should be 1/2" (1.2cm) from the raw edge of the sideseam. Baste the ends of the pocket bag above and below the pocket opening with a scant 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance.
9. Align the Front and Back side seams with WRONG sides together and sew with a 1/4" (6mm) seam allowance. Trim seam allowances back as in previous steps and press seam allowances open.
10. Turn through so that front and back side seams are RIGHT sides together and sew again with a 1/4" (6mm) seam.
It is very important NOT to catch the pocket opening in the seam - it will help to sew the seam with the pocket bags on the top, marking the inner corners of the pocket opening with pins or chalk/water soluble marker. Carefully pull the under layer of the pocket bag out as you sew between the pins to avoid catching the pocket opening. Using a zipper foot can help with this step as the foot can run along the thickness of the pocket opening edge without catching it in the seam.
Enjoy your beautifully-finished French seamed garment, complete with pockets!
Read more Twig + Tale tutorials here: