Is there a chilly winter wind blowing? Adding cosy knit cuffs - also known as storm cuffs - to the sleeves of a coat is one of our favourite ways to seal out the cold. It may seem like a small detail, but it makes a big difference to the warmth of a coat!
Use this tutorial to add knit cuffs to the Grove Coat or the Pixie Coat - it's a simple modification with a lovely result.
- Knit fabric for cuffs, such as cotton jersey or ribbed knit (use a fabric with minimum 30% stretch)
- Knit cuff pattern piece - download here
Sewing the cuffs
1. Sew the coat and lining up to the step where the sleeve facing is sewn to the sleeve lining hem. At this point, sew the side seam of the sleeve lining. Fold the sleeve facing in half and sew along the short edge. The sleeve facings are now sewn into circles.
2. Use the knit cuff pattern provided to cut out knit cuffs. Fold the cuffs in half lengthwise and sew the side seam with a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance. Press the seam open and fold the cuff in half again with wrong sides together so the top and bottom edges align. Baste these edges together (note, you may skip the basting, but it does make the piece easier to handle when sewing the next step).
3. With right sides together, align the raw edges of the knit cuff with the top edge of the sleeve facing. Match the notches and side seams, then sew the knit cuff in place, stretching the cuff to fit the facing.
4. With right sides together, align the top (sewn) edge of the sleeve facing and knit cuff with the sleeve lining hem. Sew all layers together.
5. Using the "kissing elephant" technique demonstrated in this blogpost, sew the outer sleeve to the lower edge of the sleeve facing, taking care not to catch the knit cuff in the seam. Press and topstitch the edge if desired.
6. Tack the sleeve facing to the sleeve on the side seams using the "stitch in the ditch" technique. You may also wish to topstitch the cuff close to the top seam to keep the knit cuff from "popping" out when putting on and taking off the coat. Or, hand stitch the cuff in place for a cleaner look.
Continue sewing your coat as outlined in the pattern tutorial. Enjoy those warm, cosy cuffs!
Read more Twig + Tale sewing tutorials here: