This sleeve cuff finishing technique is just as lovely as its name! This method involves pulling the sleeves between the coat outer and lining, then stitching the sleeve cuffs right sides together for a neat finish. Read on to see why this method reminds us of two elephant trunks coming together for a kiss.
Use this technique for finishing the sleeves hems of a lined coat, such as the Grove Coat, Pixie Coat, and Forester Coat.
1. Feed the lining sleeves into the exterior sleeves, checking that the lining sleeve isn’t twisted.
2. Align the two seams with wrong sides together, and pin together at the hem with a safety pin (rather than a clip or regular pin).
Go ahead and double check that lining sleeve isn’t twisted!
3. Feed the pinned sleeves into the cavity of the coat.
This step was hard to photograph, so we took a series of photos. Pull the pinned-together sleeve through, in between the exterior and lining of the coat.
Here the pinned-together sleeve is inside the coat cavity. Keep on pulling through...
4. Arrange the sleeve cuffs with the seams on top, as shown in the photo. Check again that the sleeves are not twisted. Remove the safety pin.
6. Bring the right sides of the sleeve hems together, aligning the seams.
7. Pin around the sleeve hem. Sew the hem edges together with a 3⁄8” (1cm) seam allowance.
Pro tip: If you are making a sized-up coat in order for the recipient to get longer wear from it, you can overhang the lining edge by about an inch (2.5cm) before sewing. The following year, simply unpick and resew the sleeve hem with the edges aligned for some extra length.
8. Pull the sleeve back through to its final position. The lining will now sit back from the edge with a lovely tailored finish.
*Note - the exterior sleeve will need a sewn on or folded facing to create this finish, otherwise the exterior and lining will meet at the hem edge.
9. This step is to tack together the underarm seam allowances. This does two things:
- It prevents the sleeve lining from pulling out each time you take off your coat.
- It anchors the sleeve in place so it doesn’t pull through and cause the body lining to droop.
Lift up the bottom of the coat to expose the underarm area. See the following step for a close-up of the highlighted area.
10. Bring together the underarm seams of the lining and exterior and pin them together. Tack a small section together within the seam allowance.
Enjoy wearing a beautifully-finished coat!
Read more Twig + Tale sewing tutorials here:
- How to add knit cuffs to a coat
- How to add a concealed zipper to a coat or vest
- How to sew a welt pocket
- How to make a hand-stitched buttonhole