Beautifully-fit princess seams are a key component of creating a lovely Windward Dress or Wildvine Corset Top. Here are step-by-step instructions for making an FBA (full bust adjustment) to the Twig + Tale® Windward Dress and Wildvine Corset Top sewing patterns. Notes are included for a SBA.
Making pattern adjustments may seem a bit daunting at first, but the effort is completely worth it to achieve a beautiful, handmade garment with a custom fit. After you've practiced a few times and figured out what adjustments work best for your body, it will become second nature.
Materials
Gather some basic materials to adjust the pattern pieces:- Front and Side pattern pieces (in your choice of neckline, and of hem for Wildvine) - changes will also be transferred to Front + Side lining and facing pieces
- measuring tape
- scrap paper
- tape
- pen/pencil
Measure
To determine the size of adjustment necessary, measure your high bust and full bust.
The upper bust measurement is taken around the body, with the tape snugged up to the underarms, and above the breasts.
The full bust measurement is taken around the fullest part of the breasts.
Compare your body measurements to the size chart (found on pages 12-13 of the women's Windward Dress tutorial, or pages 13-14 of the Women's Wildvine Corset Top tutorial).
| Size H | Your body measurement | |
| Upper Bust measurement | 34" | 34" |
| Full Bust measurement | 36" | 38" |
Bust Apex
The bust apex is marked on the pattern. It is a good idea to measure your own bust apex to make sure that the curve of the princess seam is in the correct position for your body.
To find your personal bust apex, measure from the outside corner of the body on the shoulder bone (the position where a shoulder seam line would sit) to the centre of your bust - this is the part that points out the most. Note that the bust apex is not necessarily the same as your nipple position. We recommend taking this measurement while wearing your favourite underwear.
Check your measurement against the pattern. Measure the pattern from the stitching line on the outside corner of the shoulder seam to the bust apex point marked on the pattern.
Make a note of the difference between your bust position versus the pattern.
Note: the following Bust Apex illustrations show pattern pieces for other princess seam T+T garments, but the method is the same.
If your bust apex differs from the pattern, you will need to lengthen or shorten the pattern between the shoulder and the bust apex so that the pattern curve for the bust is in the correct position for your body.
To do this, cut across the pattern both above and below the bust curve.
Keeping the top and bottom parts of your pattern pieces in place, move the central piece you have just cut up or down by the difference between your body and the pattern.
Full Bust Adjustment
**Note: If you are looking to do a Small Bust Adjustment, then this method works the same way as the FBA, but instead of sliding the pattern pieces out, the pattern pieces will be slid inwards to reduce volume in the curve.
Adjust pattern pieces
Please note: The following diagrams show the V-neck, Bound Hem version of the Wildvine Corset Top, however the instructions for the other neckline and hem version, and for the Windward Dress, will be the same.
- Begin by marking up both the Front and Side pieces. For the Front, draw a line parallel to the grainline from the shoulder, straight down through the bust apex and waist dart marker to the hem. Then, draw a line at 90 degrees to the grainline through the bust apex from seam to seam, as shown below.
For the Side piece, draw a line parallel to the grain line from the notch at the top near the armscye, straight down to the bottom hem. Then draw a second line, at a 90 degree angle, from the front curved seam of the Side to the line you just drew, as shown in the illustration below. This horizontal line will be positioned the same distance above the top rouleau loop notch on the Side piece as the corresponding line on the Front.
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Cut the vertical lines drawn on the Front and Side pattern pieces from the bottom hem up to but not through the stitching line, leaving a bit of paper intact to create a pivot point.
Cut the drawn horizontal lines all the way across on the Front pattern piece and to the previously cut vertical line on the Side, as shown by the illustration.
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Using the Measure instructions at the top of this page, determine how much you need to add to the pattern pieces then divide by 2. This is because we are working with one half of the bodice.
Divide the halved number again, this time into 3. Add ⅓ into the front and ⅔ into the side panel.
In our example we are adding 2" (5cm) in the total FBA, which means we divide this in half to achieve 1" (2.5cm), and then will divide this number into thirds.
We will add 1/3" (8mm) into the Front and 2/3" (1.7cm) into the Side panel.
Add the required calculated measurements by sliding the lower section of the panels apart by the amount you need to add as shown...
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...then pivot out the upper section by the same amount that you moved the lower section over as shown below.
- Tape the top pivoted pieces in place so that they don't shift and continue with the process. Pivot the lower section of the side body ONLY until the lower edge is meeting again.
IF you are needing a fuller abdomen adjustment, then you may skip this step and keep the added width at the waist.
For Windward ONLY: If you are skipping this step, then you will need to add the widths to ONE PAIR of your Side Skirt panels so that the waist seam matches up with the bodice Side panel again.
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Blend the shape your side panel, and then measure the gap created in the front seam as shown.
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On the Front, slide the lower sections apart until the gap in the Front seam matches the gap in the Side.
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Secure all your pieces then re-mark the Bust Apex and Waist Dart on the Front (you may need to re-centre the dart point on the gap created and true up those dart leg lines).
Use your adjusted pattern pieces to cut and sew the garment as outlined in the pattern tutorial. We hope you enjoy wearing clothing that is custom fit to your body!
Please feel free to join us at the Twig + Tale Facebook group where you can ask questions, look for inspiration, and of course share photos of your creations.
Read more about adjustments for the Windward Dress and Wildvine Corset Top:
- How to do a FBA or SBA for a Princess Seam
- How to Sew a Patch Pocket
- How to Add Piping to a Princess Seam
