You've got your pile of beloved fabric scraps, all your supplies, and your excitement to create something beautiful - now, it's time to sew!
Join us for part 2 of our Beginner's Guide to Foundation Paper Piecing, as we guide you step-by-step through creating your first block - from preparing your paper templates to sewing the block together and removing the paper for a neat, polished finish.
By the end, you’ll have your very first foundation paper pieced block ready to use — perfect for adding a touch of whimsy to a Twig & Tale® pattern or as the start of a beautiful new patchwork project. We will be using our all-new Toadstool Quilt Block to show the techniques.
(Missed part 1? Find it here! And, until December 8th, get the Toadstool FPP Quilt Block Template as a FREE gift with the purchase of any other pattern!)
The Foundation Paper Piecing Process
At its most basic, FPP is just...
-
- Sew
- Fold
- Trim
- Press
Keep this in mind as you work, and you'll never go astray!
To begin, print your pattern pieces (and assemble them, if it is necessary for the size you are working on.) Normal printer paper will work just fine, or you can purchase purpose-made foundation paper. I'm just using normal printer paper here.
(Note: we have intentionally opted not to include a Projector file for these patterns, as projecting is not very conducive to the sort of precision required. However, if you do not have the option to print, one could consider projecting the A0 file onto paper and tracing it. Do not, however, use these pieces to cut fabric directly, as we are not pre-cutting our fabric.)
Some sewists find they prefer not to have "seams" in their paper as they work, as it can make ripping the paper off more difficult later - to avoid this, you can optionally trace your pieces onto thin but sturdy paper, such as parchment or butcher's paper.
Trim your foundations, leaving an extra 3mm or so around all edges to help ensure you have plenty for your seam allowances later on. Once you do, you can place them in order to get a bit of a preview of what the final block will look like - this can be a good time to colour in these pieces, if you are more of a visual learner, based on the included colouring page. Then, pre-fold the templates at each seam line, to make things easier later.
From there, it's time to start sewing!
(In this tutorial, we will be sewing the foundations in letter order - A, B, C - but when doing FPP, the order of foundations you sew doesn't really matter. [However, following the number order within each foundation is vital!] If you would like to start with a simpler foundation, like B, C, or D, to practice the techniques first, you may.)
Take foundation A, and find which section is piece number 1. With the fabric wrong side up, make sure your fabric scrap is big enough to cover section A1, with a good margin all around for seam allowance + extra leeway, including enough to cover any marked seam allowances at the edge.
If you'd like, you can pin or lightly glue the fabric scrap to the back of the foundation, to keep it in place while you work.
Then, fold back your foundation + fabric together and crease, to give yourself a guideline for matching up your next scrap. If it will be helpful for you, you can take the time to pre-trim your seam allowance at this point. (Anywhere from 6-10mm [1/4-3/8"] will do - the precision will come from the piecing, not the cutting, so just make sure it's adequate to prevent fraying.)
Then, using a piece of fabric that is big enough to cover A2 wrong side up + a good margin, flip it right sides together with the A1 scrap that's already behind your foundation.
Ensure you have left adequate seam allowance along that edge that we creased and trimmed before. (You can trim a straight edge beforehand, if you want, or just leave it rough.)
Pin in place, if you wish.
With the paper template on top and your fabric scraps in place underneath, transfer everything under the needle of your sewing machine. Your paper will lay flat on top, and you will stitch through it. Line it up so that your needle will go down precisely at the beginning of the line between A1 and A2.
Using a stitch length of 1.5-2, sew from one end of that A1-A2 seam line from precisely one end to the other.
If you are sewing into the marked seam allowance, it can be good to sew all the way to the fabric's edge, but any line that ends at another piece must be precise.
Fold the template back at the seam line, and trim the seam allowance evenly. You may use whatever seam allowance you prefer, generally about 6-10mm (1/4"-38").
Open it back up, and press your pieces out open. You can do this with an iron, or if you'd like an easier option as you work, just "finger press" them open with something like a "finger presser" tool, bone folder, seam roller, ruler, or even just your fingers.
From there...just repeat! Continuing in numbered order, now we will select a scrap big enough to cover section A3 wrong side up, and flip it underneath to line up and sew with the finished section next to it - in the case of the Toadstool, this will be A1.
I struggle with spatial tasks sometimes, and so all the flipping and turning can make it a challenge to line up scraps the right way to sew, and have them press flat like they need to cover the right section. If you find you are having the same challenges, here's a way I've found to help me get it right every time. (I am showing this on the B foundation, but it works anywhere you need it.)
After folding back my paper + attached fabric using the template line, lay the next scrap on top wrong side up, check its size and orientation, and then fold up the appropriate edge to match the line on the template. This marks the seam line quickly, and easily; you can also use a disappearing pen to mark the seam allowance too, if it's helpful. Then, with the scrap still folded, turn the foundation over, and lay the new folded piece right side up so that it lines up with the first crease made, and covers the section completely. Then, without moving it, unfold it so that the creases stay lined up.
From there, just turn the foundation over, and sew the line as usual.
Once you get to piece A5 of the Toadstool, or similar spot in the pattern you are using, you'll see why order matters - it crosses over multiple previous sections. If we had done these out of order, we'd run into trouble. But, because we went in the order we did, we will easily be able to line up this fabric scrap to overlap with those previously stitched sections, and sew across the whole thing at once, the same as if we were joining two single sections.
Trim the seam allowance, and press the fabric pieces open just as usual, continuing until you have done so with all of the A pieces. Then congratulations - you've just finished your first foundation! At this point, you can trim more neatly around the edge of the foundation's seam allowance, to have it ready to connect to the others later.
You'll repeat this same process for each section of each foundation - B1, B2, B3, C1, C2...you get the idea. Once you have completed all the foundations in your block, just trim them to match the marked seam allowance exactly, and you will be ready to assemble the whole thing together, and watch your picture come to life!
To assemble your foundations, simply lay each one right sides together with the accompanying one, pinning or hand-basting any spots that need to line up well. Then sew together, and press open, and continue in assembly order until they are all attached.
Then, it's time to remove the paper template. With the needle holes acting as perforations, they will tear pretty easily from the back of your work. Tools like tweezers will be really helpful for the tiniest of pieces.
Give your block a final press, and then it's time to do a little happy dance - because you've officially made your first Foundation Paper Pieced quilt block!
From here, there's all sorts of ways to include your quilt block in your favourite T+T projects. As mentioned previously, the Toadstool templates are sized specifically to work as the front flap of the Foraging Satchel, using this blog post to adapt the pattern.
But that's not the only option, by far! We've shared some additional ideas for using your quilt blocks in garments, accessories, and more here on the blog - come on over, and find inspiration for your next quilt-y project!
