How to do a Broad Shoulder Adjustment for the Fable Dress

Do you find that garments tend to pull or feel a bit tight across the shoulders?  This simple pattern adjustment will help you modify your Fable Dress for a perfect fit, with enough ease to allow for unrestricted movement.  It takes just a little bit of extra time, but is so worth the effort when the result is a garment customized just for you.

Materials

  • Front Side, and Back Fable Dress pattern pieces
  • Measuring tape
  • Scrap paper
  • Tape
  • Pencil

Measure

1.  Begin by measuring your back to determine the size of shoulder adjustment you will need to make.  

Measure across the top of your back from the crease where the top of your arm joins your back, from one side to the other.   This is easiest if you get someone to help you measure.

Board Shoulder Adjustment for Fable Dress by Twig + Tale

2.  Work out the shoulder to shoulder difference between your body measurement and the pattern finished garment measurement.  The finished garment measurement can be found on pages 17-18 of the Fable Dress tutorial, or you may measure the pattern piece.  

For example:

  • Your body measurement = 46cm
  • Finished garment measurement = 40cm
  • Difference = 6cm

Since the pattern piece you will be working with is half the width of the back, divide the difference measurement in half = 3cm.  This will be your pattern adjustment measurement.  

Adjust pattern pieces

1.  Mark and cut the Side Front and Back pattern pieces as follows:

  • 1 line parallel to grainline / foldline 
  • 1 line across to underarm point
  • 1 line across about halfway down armhole. 

Also, mark in the seamline (indicated by the dotted line) at underarm to create a pivot point.  

Board Shoulder Adjustment for Fable Dress by Twig + Tale

2.  Slide the top shoulder piece over the amount determined in the pattern adjustment measurement calculation above (eg. 3cm in our example).

Board Shoulder Adjustment for Fable Dress by Twig + Tale

3.  Pivot the bottom section so that outer corner meets the bottom of the section you slid over in the previous step.  

Board Shoulder Adjustment for Fable Dress by Twig + Tale

4.  Adjust the top piece, sliding it up or down so that the armhole stays the same length. 

Board Shoulder Adjustment for Fable Dress by Twig + Tale

5.  Blend seam lines and smooth.  Re-mark the single and double notches to indicate the front and back pieces.  

Board Shoulder Adjustment for Fable Dress by Twig + Tale

The pattern pieces have now been adjusted to your custom measurement.  Before cutting into your fancy Fable Dress fabric, we recommend sewing a muslin to test out the new shoulder adjustment, ensuring a comfortable fit with enough ease for unrestricted movement. 

Read more about the Fable Dress here:

 

~ Lovely cover image by Jay Dubb ~