How to do a Smaller Bust Adjustment (SBA) for the Windward Dress + Wildvine Corset Top

Compare your body measurements to the size chart (found on pages 12-13 of the Windward Dress tutorial, or pages 13-14 of the Wildvine Corset Top tutorial).  

Measure the Bust Apex

The bust apex is marked on the pattern. It is a good idea to measure your own bust apex to make sure that the curve of the princess seam is in the correct position for your body. 

To find your personal bust apex, measure from the outside corner of the body on the shoulder bone (the position where a shoulder seam line would sit) to the centre of your bust - this is the part that points out the most. Note that the bust apex is not necessarily the same as your nipple position. We recommend taking this measurement while wearing underwear similar to what you will wear with the finished garment. 

Check your measurement against the pattern by measuring the pattern piece from the stitching line on the outside corner of the shoulder seam to the bust apex point marking. Make a note of the difference between your bust position versus the pattern.

If your bust apex differs from the pattern, you will need to lengthen or shorten the pattern between the shoulder and the bust apex so that the pattern curve for the bust is in the correct position for your body. 

Adjust the Bust Apex position

1. Cut across the pattern above and below the bust curve/bust apex marker. Cut all the way across the Front pattern piece and cut a square section out of the Side Front pattern piece.

2. Keeping the top and bottom parts of the pattern pieces in place, move the cut out piece up or down by the difference between your body measurement and the pattern. 

3. Use a piece of scrap paper to tape the adjusted pieces in place and blend the lines.

Small Bust Adjustment 

Please note: The following diagrams show the V-neck, Bound Hem version of the Wildvine Corset Top, however the instructions for the other neckline and hem version, and for the Windward Dress, will be the same.

1. On the the Front pattern piece, draw a line parallel to the grainline from the shoulder, straight down through the bust apex and waist dart marker to the hem. Then, draw a line at 90 degrees to the grainline through the bust apex from seam to seam, as shown below.

On the Side pattern piece, draw a line parallel to the grain line from the notch near the armscye, straight down to the bottom hem. Then draw a second line, at a  90 degree angle, from the front curved seam of the Side to the line you just drew, as shown in the illustration below. This horizontal line will be positioned the same distance above the top rouleau loop notch on the Side piece as the corresponding line on the Front. 

2. Cut the vertical lines drawn on the Front and Side pattern pieces from the bottom hem up to but not through the stitching line, leaving a bit of paper intact to create a pivot point. 

Cut the drawn horizontal lines all the way across on the Front pattern piece and to the previously cut vertical line on the Side, as shown below.

3. Based on your measurements, determine how much you need to add to the pattern pieces then divide by 2 (this is because we are working with one half of the bodice).

In our example, we are removing 1.5" in the total SBA. We will divide this number in half (since we are working on half the bodice) to equal 0.75".

We will then divide this number into thirds, which equals 0.25". We will remove 1/3 of the amount (0.25/0.6cm") from the Front pattern piece and 2/3 of the amount (0.5"/1.25cm) from the Side pattern piece.

Remove the required amounts by sliding the lower section of the panels together by the calculated amounts.

4. Pivot in the upper section by the same amount that you moved the lower section over.

5. Tape the top pivoted pieces in place so that they don't shift. Pivot the lower section of the side body ONLY until the lower edge is meeting again.

IF you need a fuller abdomen adjustment, then you may skip this step and keep the added width at the waist.

For Windward ONLY: If you are skipping this step, then you will need to add the widths to ONE PAIR of your Side Skirt panels so that the waist seam matches up with the bodice Side panel again.

6. On the Front, slide the lower sections up until the overlap in the Front seam matches the overlap in the Side. 

7. Blend the side seam and smooth the shape of the hem.

8. Secure all the pieces with tape, then re-mark the Bust Apex and Waist Dart on the Front (you may need to re-centre the dart point on the gap created and true up those dart leg lines).

Transfer changes to the Front and Side lining and facing pattern pieces. 

Use your adjusted pattern pieces to cut and sew the garment as outlined in the pattern tutorial.  We hope you enjoy wearing clothing that is custom fit to your body! Remember, we always advise sewing a toile/muslin before cutting into your fancy fabric. 

Please feel free to join us in the Twig + Tale Treehouse Community or the Twig + Tale Chat Facebook group where you can ask questions, look for inspiration, and of course share photos of your creations.

Read more fitting and technique tutorials for the Windward Dress and Wildvine Corset Top here:

• Shoulder Width Adjustment for a Set-in Sleeve
• High Rounded Back Adjustment for a Set-in Sleeve
• How to Sew a Bra Keeper
• How to Add Piping to a Princess Seam