Learning how to sew a toile (also known as a muslin) is one of the most impactful ways to improve your sewing - we really do believe it's an important step on any sewist's journey.
A toile is your opportunity to test sew a garment, trying out the pattern and resolving fit issues before cutting into your good fabric. In the long run, it will mean that you no longer put time, energy, and money into sewing garments that don't fit properly.
Here, we discuss why you should learn to sew a toile and give a general overview of what the process looks like.
What is a toile or muslin... and why does it have two names?
A toile is a test version of a garment, normally made with inexpensive fabric, that allows you to try out a pattern and work through any fitting adjustments that need to be made. A toile is your chance to experiment - you can mark it up, pin it, baste it, rip seams open, take seams in. Once you're pleased with the fit, the marked up toile will be your roadmap for creating a garment to fit your body.
A toile is generally not a finished garment (although sometimes, when it goes well, you may end up with what we call a "wearable toile").
Now, to clarify the name issue, toile is the term commonly used in Britain, New Zealand, and Australia, whereas muslin is the American term. Interestingly, muslin is also the American name for the fabric that is often used to sew a toile/muslin, which is known as calico in Britain, New Zealand, and Australia (a densely-woven cotton, often unbleached and slightly slubby, that is relatively inexpensive).
So, to translate: toile = muslin. And calico = muslin fabric.
I've never sewn a toile before, so why start now?
It's quite possible to become a competent sewist without ever sewing a toile. Simple beginner patterns and children's patterns tend to have minimal shaping, so the fit isn't as critical. Some people stick with stretch fabrics, which are more forgiving at hiding fit issues.
So, why learn how to sew a toile? For most sewists, there comes a point when the garments you want to sew are sufficiently complex that skipping a toile becomes more expensive than making one. There's nothing as disappointing as spending time and money on a project that turns out to be unwearable.
We don't look upon sewing a toile as a fussy, optional extra step. It's an empowering skill that will deepen your knowledge and appreciation for sewing. All bodies are different, and the ability to adjust patterns to fit your body, rather than expecting your body to conform to some mythical standardised size, is a sewist's super power.
How to make a toile - materials
In order to sew a toile, you'll need fabric and regular sewing supplies, including a measuring tape and fabric marking tools. Nice to have, but not necessary, are a dress form that's customised to your size or maybe even a friend to help with fitting - someone to help pin awkward places, like the back of garments.
Ideally, the fabric for your toile will behave similarly to your final fabric in terms of weight, drape, and type, but at an economical price. Whenever possible, we prefer to use upcycled textiles for toile sewing, such as old sheets or duvet covers. If you're purchasing fabric, calico (muslin) is a good option, since it comes in wide widths and various weights.
I prefer to use a light-coloured fabric when making a toile, so that any marks I make on the fabric show up well.
In addition to fabric, you'll need:
- Marking tools - a fabric marking pen, tailor's chalk, or other marking tool. Keep in mind that you probably don't want the marks you make on the toile to be heat erasable, so a regular ink pen or marker can work well.
- Measuring implements - a measuring tape is indispensable - you absolutely must take your measurements! If you regularly make pattern adjustments, a French curve is also a very useful tool to have.
- Thread and hand-sewing needle - useful for hand basting and creating thread markings on the toile. Use a contrasting colour of thread so the stitches are easier to see.
- Your traced pattern - Your pattern pieces, traced in your size(s).
How to make a toile - what to expect from the process
Here is a general overview of what the process of making a toile looks like. We won't go into a lot of detail here, since T+T offers many detailed fitting resources, but here's what you can expect:
- Trace and prepare the pattern pieces - use the tutorial to choose your base size(s) and print or trace the pattern, doing any basic size blending (there are always instructions for this included in the pattern tutorials).
- Sew the main seams of the garment - using a longer stitch length makes it easier to pick out stitches if necessary. You can skip some of the fine details at this point like pockets, buttons, and zippers.
- Try the garment on and examine the fit (use a full-length mirror if fitting on yourself). Look for indicators of fit issues like drag lines, areas that are too tight, too loose, bust apex position.
- Mark alterations directly on the toile. Use pins, a marking tool, or hand basting stitches.
- Re-sew areas that need adjustment.
- Try the garment on again and examine how your adjustments have impacted the fit. Remember that it may be necessary to sew more than one toile - there may be several iterations in the fitting process to get it just right.
Once you're happy with the fit, transfer the markings on the toile back to the paper pattern pieces. Make sure you keep those altered pieces for future use!
For real-life examples of the toiling process, you can read about some of our community members' experience with fitting the Plains Dress here.
Do I always have to make a toile?
Well, probably not. Or maybe not always a full toile. There are times when you can make a partial toile that addresses the "tricky bits" as a middle ground. For example, if you're sewing a Fable Dress, you could potentially just toile the bodice and short sleeves to work out the fit of the princess seams, the armscyes, and the shoulder position.
When deciding whether to make a toile, consider a number of factors. How complex is the pattern? Is it very fit sensitive (eg. there's a big difference between a tailored bodice and a simple elastic-waisted skirt)? How expensive is the fabric I want to use?
I will say, the patterns that I have properly toiled and saved the adjusted pattern pieces are like sewing gold - those are the patterns I return to again and again.
Learning how to sew a toile is an investment in your sewing skills, your wardrobe, and in yourself. Each toile you make deepens your understanding of how garments are constructed and how patterns can be adjusted to work for your body.
For many of us, finding shop-bought clothes that fit well can be a demoralising experience. Learning to sew garments that are right for your body is one of the most empowering things you can do.
We hope that you're inspired to give it a try! We'd love to support you in the process. Our pattern tutorials and blog are full of fitting resources to help you along the way, we're always happy to answer fitting questions.
