Why do we talk about fitting so much at Twig + Tale?
Well, the fact is that very few of us have bodies that correlate exactly to a "standard" size chart.
So, fitting is important - it's the superpower in our sewing toolkits that allows us to create garments that are customised for our unique bodies. Garments that feel just right, that we reach for again and again.
While it might feel intimidating, once you get the hang of it, fitting just becomes another step in the sewing process... and we have plenty of resources to help you along the way! The more you do it, the better you'll understand your body, and will start to anticipate the pattern adjustments needed to create your ideal wardrobe.
Longtime Twig + Tale community member Chiew Mei Law has agreed to share her process of sewing our new Hedgerow Dungarees, so that you can see what her fitting process looked like.
Measure for the body you are sewing for
Don't guess - always take measurements! Use the Measuring for a Good Fit guide included in every T+T pattern tutorial, or refer to this blog post for more detailed tips: How to Take your Measurements. Having proper measurements will get your project off to the best possible start.
Use the Fitting Guide in to select your size and adjustments
Every T+T pattern tutorial includes a Fitting guide to help you select your size and identify which pattern adjustments are needed. Remember, it is very common for measurements to fall into different size brackets, and to need pattern adjustments. We'll walk you through how to do it!
Sew a toile and use it to test out your adjustments
We advise sewing a toile (which is basically a practice version) before cutting into your good fabric - especially with a new-to-you pattern. You may need to sew more that one toile to perfect the fit.
The photo below shows two toiles that Mei sewed of the Hedgerow Dungarees. She used the toiles to figure out her preferred size, to try both the pleated and flat front versions, and to work out what pattern adjustments she needed to make.
Note that Mei marked the rise lengthen/shorten line and the bust apex right on Toile #2 with pen, to use in making her pattern adjustments. Marking up a toile is a useful way to check fit and create a map of adjustments to make.
Transfer any changes to your pattern pieces, then cut and sew
Working out fit issues on your toile(s) means you can confidently cut and sew your garment from final fabric.
Based on her toiles, Mei made the following adjustments to her Hedgerow Dungarees:
- height adjustments - Mei reduced the inseam, the strap length, and the bib height
- leg length adjustment
- rise adjustment - Mei increased the rise slightly, so that the waistband sits at the smallest part of her waist
Make any final tweaks to the garment
The work done in the previous steps will get you very close to your final fit, but there may still be some minor tweaks to make, especially if your final garment has been sewing in a fabric that behaves very differently from the toile.
Mei's final adjustments were to move the buttons closer towards the centre - she preferred the look and it helped relax the back straps a little. This allowed the straps to sit wider apart on the shoulders and resolved some slight gaping of the bib.
BONUS tip from Mei...
Keep records of your fitting process - your future self will thank you!
The Hedgerow Dungarees pattern tutorial includes resources for choosing your size, blending sizes, and making pattern adjustments. There are also plenty of fitting resources on the Twig + Tale blog for making pattern adjustments to the Hedgerows:
- Fuller Bust Adjustment (FBA) for the Wildflower Pinafore and Hedgerow Dungarees
- Full Thigh Adjustment for Pants
- Fuller Seat (Shelf) Adjustment for Pants
- Fuller Seat Adjustment for Trousers
- Trouser Waist Height Adjustment for a Flatter Rear
-
Fuller Abdomen Adjustment for Pants
