This adjustment helps to eliminate sagginess in the back of trousers for those with a flatter bum. By removing length from the back rise, the back legs are pulled up and the bagginess over the rear is reduced.
This adjustment will work for any basic pull-on pants or shorts. Here, we demonstrate using the Shore Pants pattern.
- Pattern pieces (we're using the Shore Pants)
- Measuring tape
- Scrap paper
To determine how much length to remove from the front rise, either make a muslin (which will help with any other adjustments you wish to make) or measure from the back of the seat, through the legs to where you want the front waist to sit and compare this measurement against the finished measurement in the size chart.
Use the Finished Garment Measurement Chart (in the pattern tutorial) as a guide.
For example, the size 48 Shore Pants have a rise of 30.9" (78.5cm). Our sample sewist measures and finds that they need a rise of 29" (73.5cm) for a comfortable fit that removes excess fabric. Calculate the difference between the two measurements to figure out how much to add:
|Finished garment rise measurement||30.9" (78.5cm)|
|Sample sewist rise measurement||29" (73.5cm)|
|Difference = amount to add||1.9" (5cm)|
Note that the amount of ease required will vary depending on personal preference as well as the intended fit of the trousers.
Adjust the pattern pieces
1. Using the Back pattern piece, cut through the rise lengthen/shorten line, stopping at the seam allowance on the side seam, leaving a bit of paper intact to create a pivot point 3/8" (1cm) from the pattern edge.
2. Pivot the back rise until it is shortened by amount determined above - the pieces will overlap. Tape in place.
3. Blend the back rise so it is a smooth curve.
Once your pattern piece is adjusted, continue to cut and sew as outlined in the tutorial. We always recommend sewing a muslin to check the fit before cutting into your final fabric.
Enjoy wearing trousers with a customized fit!