This pattern adjustment can greatly improve the fit of a cape or cloak for those whose shoulders tend to round or slope forward.
The most common sign of needing a forward shoulder adjustment for a cape or cloak is that the garment slides backwards. This will throw off the position of the shoulder seams, which impacts the fit, and may also be uncomfortable if the cape or cloak pulls back against the neck.
This adjustment essentially shifts the shoulder seamline forward, taking a small wedge of fabric volume from the front of the garment and adding it onto the back.
Use this tutorial to adjust pattern pieces for the Twig + Tale Traveller Cape, the Overland Cloak, and the Cascades Cloak (coming soon!).
How do I know if I need a Forward Shoulder Adjustment?
A Forward Shoulder Adjustment may be needed if your shoulders tend to angle or round forward towards the front of your body. This is a commonly needed adjustment, since many of us have postural changes from sitting at computers etc.
When examining the fit of a cape or cloak, this may appear as:
- the cape/cloak sliding backwards, so that the shoulder seams are no longer in the correct position
- the cape/cloak may feel tight across the upper chest and pull back into the neck
- the cape/cloak may gape at the back of the neckline
We recommend sewing a muslin (toile) of your garment first, to determine the size of adjustment to make. For this pattern adjustment, we will be angling the shoulder forward, removing volume from the front of the shoulder area, and adding it to the back.
Try on your muslin, note the position of the shoulder seams, and pinch out and pin the excess fabric from the front of the shoulder to determine your adjustment amount.
Materials
- Ruler
- Pencil
- Scissors
- Scrap paper
- Pattern pieces to adjust:
- Traveller Cape - Front and Back
- Overland Cloak - Front, Back, Side Back, Front Facing, Back Neck Facing
- Cascades Cloak - Middle Front, Side Front, Side Back, Front Facing, Back Facing
Adjust the pattern pieces
1. Draw a line across the shoulder seams on both the Front and Back pattern pieces, as illustrated below. The line will start at the neck, approximately 5/8" (1.5cm) away from the shoulder seam and extend to the shoulder curve (just above the notch on the Cascades Cloak). Note that for the Cascades Cloak, the line will run through both the Side Front and Middle Front pattern pieces. Cut through the lines.
These illustrations show three different Twig + Tale capes/cloaks, with the back pattern piece(s) on the left and the front pattern piece(s) on the right for each set.
2. Move the cutout sections by the amount determined above, sliding the Back piece away from the pattern piece and the Front piece towards the pattern piece so that it overlaps. Place scrap paper under the adjusted piece and tape in place.
3. Blend and redraw the lines.
4. If adjusting the Cascades Cloak pattern pieces: since the Front adjustment line cuts across two pattern pieces, check to make sure that the seamline still runs together correctly. Adjust the position of the cut pieces if necessary.
5. Transfer pattern adjustment to lining and facing pattern pieces, if applicable.
You can now use your adjusted pieces to cut and sew a custom-fitted cape or cloak!
Read more Twig + Tale tutorials related to sewing capes and cloaks here:
