A bust apex adjustment is used to ensure that the bust apex on the pattern corresponds with the fullest part of the breasts. It is common to have to either move the bust apex higher or lower so that it sits at the right point. This will ensure that any shaping in the pattern, such as darts or princess seams, hits at the right location, and helps to eliminate fit issues such as pulling, sagging, or wrinkling.
A bust apex adjustment can be used in conjunction with a Full Bust or Small Bust Adjustment, or it can be used on its own if no adjustment to the bust size is needed.
Here, we discuss what a bust apex adjustment is, and provide a roundup of blog posts that explain how to do the adjustment on different pattern types, such as a bust dart or princess seams.
What is the bust apex?
The bust apex is marked on Twig + Tale Women's/Curved Fit sewing patterns and indicates the location of the fullest part of the breast on the pattern piece.
On a pattern with darts, the dart is intended to point to the fullest part of the breast when the garment is worn. On a pattern with princess seams, the apex is located at the fullest part of the curve.
If the bust apex is in the wrong position for your body, then the fullness of the garment will be in the wrong spot. This can cause loose fabric to sag or wrinkle above or below the bust, and/or tightness across the bust apex. There may be wrinkles or drag lines from the bust point toward the armscye or shoulder.
How to measure your bust apex position
It is a good idea to measure your own bust apex, then compare it to the marked bust apex position on the pattern piece to determine the best position for your body.
To find your personal bust apex, measure from the outside corner of the body on the shoulder bone (the position where the shoulder seam would sit) to the fullest point of your bust. Note that the bust apex is not necessarily the same as your nipple position. We recommend taking this measurement while wearing the bra that you would wear with the finished garment.
Your bust apex position will be compared to the bust apex marker on the pattern piece to determine what adjustment is needed. Select the appropriate tutorial from the list below, as this step will look different depending on the shape of the pattern piece.
Bust Apex Position pattern adjustment tutorials
The following tutorials demonstrate how to adjust the position of the bust apex on different types of garments. If the Full Bust Adjustment or Small Bust Adjustment sections are not applicable, just scroll down in the applicable tutorial to the section titled "Modifying the Bust Apex".
Bust dart + set-in sleeve:
Fuller Bust Adjustment (FBA) and Bust Apex Adjustment for a top with a bust dart. Use this tutorial for adjusting the bust apex position on the Scenic Top, Vista Top, and Plains Dress.
Smaller Bust Adjustment (SBA) and Bust Apex Adjustment for a top with a bust dart. Use this tutorial for adjusting the bust apex position on the Scenic Top, Vista Top, and Plains Dress.
Bust dart + raglan sleeve:
Fuller Bust Adjustment (FBA) and Bust Apex Adjustment for a raglan sleeve garment. Use this adjustment for the Women's/Curved Fit Grove Coat.
Smaller Bust Adjustment (SBA) and Bust Apex Adjustment for a raglan sleeve garment. Use this adjustment for the Women's/Curved Fit Grove Coat.
Princess seam:
Bust Adjustment (FBA/SBA) and Bust Apex Adjustment for a princess seam garment. Use this tutorial for adjusting the bust apex position on the Fable Dress, Women's/Curved Fit Pathfinder Vest, Flourish Dress Coat, and Bloom Jacket.
Windward Dress + Wildvine Corset Top:
Fuller Bust Adjustment (FBA) and Bust Apex Adjustment for the Windward Dress and the Wildvine Corset Top. Specifically for these two patterns.
Smaller Bust Adjustment (SBA) and Bust Apex Adjustment for the Windward Dress and the Wildvine Corset Top. Specifically for these two patterns.
Plains Dress curved front option:
Fuller Bust Adjustment (FBA) and Bust Apex Adjustment for the curved front Plains Dress. Specific to the curved front variation of the Plains Dress
Smaller Bust Adjustment (SBA) and Bust Apex Adjustment for the curved front Plains Dress. Specific to the curved front variation of the Plains Dress.
If you have any questions about sewing or fitting Twig + Tale patterns, or if you'd like to share your projects, please join us in our free Twig + Tale Treehouse Sewing Community - we'd love to see you there!
