In this final instalment of a three part series, Twig + Tale team member, and experimental archaeologist, Lindsey Foster presents the final results of an ongoing project: an historically-inspired ensemble, made entirely with T+T patterns.
If you missed the previous instalments, they can be found here: Part 1 and Part 2.
Dear Reader;
I have been so very fortunate to have had the chance to see both sunrises and sunsets for the past several days. We have endured a number of dreadful storms lately in Aotearoa New Zealand, churning the sea into angry froth and terrible winds. However, even the worst of storms blow themselves out and often give way to ethereal calm.
In this past week, I woke to see sunrises that were a celebration of primary colours swirling across the sky. Each sunset has outdone the night before. The sun drips toward the horizon beyond the shadowed outline of the South Island, the blue haze of distant sea-spray blending the sky and sea into one dazzling, dreamy blue band. It’s during these quiet times, these endings and beginnings, that I have felt most connected to the world around me, and to those who have come before.
There was a beginning to this project, and now there is an end. And I’m really pleased with how it all has come together.
Once the hem was faced and bound on my Lorien Skirt, it was time to make my Scenic Top. I made these things perhaps out of order compared to how I might make a typical modern outfit. Historically, outfits were assembled essentially from the skin out: chemise and drawers, corset, petticoats, and then a gown or blouse and skirt. This ensured that the wearer was accounting for the layers of supportive undergarments that would be worn. When I am making an historical ensemble, I make the gown or bodice last; that way, everything fits nicely over the varying waistbands (or other, more structural bits of garment scaffolding!). Because I was approaching this outfit with the nineteenth century in mind, my order of operations followed suit.
I used part of a linen bedsheet for my fashion fabric, and narrow black cotton tape for the trimmings. I found both at a charity shop when planning this project. After laundering my materials, I pressed them and made quick work of this Scenic Top project. I chose to use the pleated sleeve option from the Sprig Sleeve Add-On pattern to more closely to evoke the little cap-sleeves-over-full-gathered-long-sleeves you see in photographs of the 1850s and 1860s. I followed the Tutorial more or less exactly, though I chose to use French seams for most of my construction since I don’t have an overlocker and prefer to enclose raw edges of linen to prevent fraying. I used a tight zig-zag stitch and scalloped pinking shears in the armscyes of the top, however, to try and mimic the effect of an overlocker on my normal sewing machine. I also used a zig-zag stitch to apply my cotton tape trim. It took me almost no time at all, and I am so pleased with the result! It is such a comfortable blouse, and I find the trim is really striking.
The Serendipity Bow was just as breezy. I had some brown silk taffeta scraps that were too small for most projects, but too precious to let go of! I am glad I kept them, because within about ten minutes, they and a bit of handmade lace made for a perfect mid-Victorian neckbow. I will put a pin on the back of it, but I also think I’ll put a hairclip on it as well. This way, I can pin it to my neckline if I want to wear it as a garment, but I can also use it as a hair accessory if I want to be my best storybook character. Honestly, these little touches help to bring an ensemble to life. I love being able to add these bits of texture to my wardrobe.
I had plans to make Skirt Hikes for this project, but when it came to assembling the Lorien Skirt, I knew I didn’t want to attach them permanently to the waistband. Rather, I wanted to make a stamped leather belt and hang the Skirt Hikes from them, using the leather option included in the pattern. However, I haven’t yet found the right buckle for my project, so the Hikes will have to wait. I tacked my skirt pick-ups in place for now, as I really do love the way it looks with the petticoat peeking out!
In the meantime, I took another belt from my wardrobe and hung my Epoch Pocket from it. I love this pocket so, so much. The tulip style makes for a two-in-one style, and I already enjoy wearing and using it, whether collecting pretty shells or carrying my personal items with me at work.
But with that, I now had the whole ensemble: voila! It came out pretty close compared to what I had envisioned when I first started planning this project. It feels romantic and twirly to wear, and the drapey, lightweight natural fibres are comfortable even in these last days of summer. I am delighted to have given these pieces of material new life, and am delighted to continue their story by adding my own voice to theirs. And now, I have so many more ideas of garments I want to make that are inspired by clothing of the past!
This last week, I came across a phrase that resonated with me in a letter written in New Zealand by a Pākehā (white European) woman called Maria Richmond on 8 November 1853. She is recounting to a group of her friends in England various updates of her life. In listing the varying challenges and highlights since her departure from her mother country, she muses on “the wonderfulness of change” in her life, the energy she derives from her circumstances, and the awareness that her experience of change may be unique to herself.
I love that phrase: The wonderfulness of change.
Change is something I think we struggle to embrace. I know I have wrestled with it, grieved over it, fought against it, resigned myself to it, grudgingly accepted it. But finding wonderfulness in it?
I thought of my Great Grandmother Nelle, who had traveled as an infant in a covered wagon through the hills of Tennessee into the hollers of the Ozarks in the 1890s. Throughout the decades of her life that were marred by a number of bitter tragedies, she also found tremendous beauty and joy. That same person born into a world traveling on foot lived long enough to fly in a jetplane. Change, indeed. And wonderful too.
I have so enjoyed the opportunity with this project to immerse myself in stories of change and constancy. It has been a privilege to reflect on the common threads that connect past and present. Thank you for joining me on this little adventure. It’s been wonderful to share company with you.
Until next time,
Lindsey
Find all of the patterns that Lindsey uses to create her historically inspired outfit here.
Read parts 1 and 2 of Lindsey's story here:
- Part 1: planning an historically-inspired ensemble with modern patterns
- Part 2: an historically-inspired outfit in progress
