This pattern fitting adjustment is used to add some extra shoulder width to a raglan sleeve garment.
A good fit across the shoulders makes all the difference to the comfort of a top or coat. If you find that garments tend to feel tight across the shoulders and upper back, or if you notice draglines pulling in from the raglan seam, then give this adjustment a try.
Here, we demonstrate using two different raglan-sleeve Twig + Tale patterns: the Loft Quilted Jacket and the Grove Coat, which has a distinctive darted sleeve. However, the fitting adjustment technique will work on any raglan sleeve sewing pattern.
Materials
Gather some basic materials to adjust the pattern pieces:
- Front, Back, and Sleeve pattern pieces (Loft Quilted Jacket); Front/Back Exterior, Sleeve Exterior, Front/Back Lining, Sleeve Lining pattern pieces (Grove Coat)
- Measuring tape
- Scrap paper
- Ruler
- Pen/pencil
- Ruler
Measure
Begin by measuring your back to determine the size of shoulder adjustment to make.
Measure across the top of your back from the crease where the top of your arm joins your back, from one side to the other. This is easiest if you get someone to help you measure.
Work out the shoulder to shoulder difference between your body measurement and the size chart measurement. The size chart shoulder measurement can be found in the pattern tutorial.
For example:
- Your body shoulder measurement = 45cm
- Size chart shoulder measurement = 40cm
- Difference = 2"/5cm
Since the pattern piece you will be working with is half the width of the back, divide the difference in two. In our example, this would be 1"/2.5cm. This will be your pattern adjustment amount.
Adjust pattern pieces - Loft Quilted Jacket/basic raglan sleeve
*Scroll down to the next section to find specific instructions for adjusting the Grove Coat sleeve - it looks a bit different because of the shoulder dart.
1. Mark two lines on Front and Back pattern pieces as follows:
- One line just below the underarm, at a right angle to the grainline (horizontal dotted line in illustration below). Measure so it is the same distance below the underarm on both pattern pieces.
- A second line from the raglan seam below the neckline, extending down to meet the first line at a 90 degree angle, parallel to grainline (vertical dotted line in illustration below).
Cut up to but not through the side seam allowance, leaving a bit of paper intact to create a pivot point.
Adjust pattern pieces - Grove Coat
1. Mark two lines on Front Exterior and Back Exterior pattern pieces as follows:
- One line between dart and underarm, at a right angle to the grainline (horizontal dotted line in illustration below). If you are making the men's (straight fit), or child version use the lengthen/shorten line as a reference rather than the dart.
- One line from halfway between the neck and first notch on raglan seam, extending down to meet the first line at a 90 degree angle, parallel to grainline (vertical dotted line in illustration below).
Cut up to but not through the side seam allowance, leaving a bit of paper intact to create a pivot point.
